When is the last time you looked at the tag on your clothes to see where it came from? Many of us, in the hustle and bustle of life, probably have no idea where most of our clothes come from. We, at Ethical Fashion Academy, believe that knowing what is on our bodies is equally important as knowing what we consume into our bodies, especially if toxic, cancer causing chemicals are involved. Manufacture New York, a social entrepreneur company also shares this philosophy. Last month, we had the opportunity to attend MNY's Sustainable Textile Summit at the Loeb and Loeb building. It was a chilly, brisk afternoon in New York City, but inspiration warmed the room where artists, designers, teachers and fashion lovers alike shared their ideas and passion over cups of coffee and tea. Manufacture New York, started by Bob Bland and team, aims to support local designers while emphasizing the importance of eco-fashion from recycled garments. MNY is creating a sustainable fashion community right here in New York. During the summit, vital information was unearthed. For someone like me, who is neither a designer nor a business woman, I experience information overload. Guest speakers took a dive into pioneering ways of creating sustainable communities, empowered others to join the movement, and stimulated resourceful ideas on how to truly sustain an eco-system of slow, ethical fashion. Ethical Fashion Academy’s Francisca spoke on a panel with designers and while explaining the difficulty of running an eco-friendly business said, “It doesn’t take an expert, anyone can get involved and everyone can do their small part.” Other guest speakers on the panel moderated by Holly Henderson of Simply Natural were, the Head of Sourcing and Production at SUNO, Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart Founder of Vaute Couture. Cheryl Campbell Head of Eileen Fisher foundation and Green Eileen clothing recycling initiative, and Ross Gibson of Patagonia also contributed as panelists. You can only imagine all of the great tips and insights that were unleashed by seasoned fashionistas and industry experts with decades of experience and knowledge. After learning some of the most grotesque practices to mankind and deconstructing the beautiful realm of fashion in my mind, I have to admit, I was a little disenchanted by the glamour of all I once worshipped-let’s say- as far back as a young teenager buying my first teen Vogue magazine and well, hoarding as many graphic t-shirts as possible--just to keep up with my friends (I had an impressive collection). Many of the statistics and facts were shocking as additional guest speakers spilled their stories and passion for eco-fashion. Rhett Godfrey, representing organic cotton company Loomstate, would say that there is probably more cotton digested inside of your body than on the backs of those gorgeous models in the magazine, or perhaps that 85% of textiles ends in landfill. Having traveled to the end of the world to gain first-hand knowledge of organic cotton farming, my guess is this isn't just something he read out of a magazine. Sass Brown, author of ‘Refashioned’ and acting Assistant Dean for the School of Art and Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, would tell you that thousands of people in Bangladesh were killed due to hazardous environmental facilities, and that communities in India are given permanent reminders of how toxins can eat away human skin. With her experience as an international activist, your guess would be right that these aren’t just characters in a book. This is real life. Not all companies should be put into this category, however. There are many brands making efforts to transition into more environmentally and socially conscious clothing, but we all have challenges that we face: money and time. Not sure where to start? You can begin by using some of the takeaways from the summit. Recycle your gently used clothes at your local donation center, research designers by using an app like 'Source Map' created by CEO, Leo Bonnani who built a system capable of tracking down your product even "down to the Chiquita banana farm" if you so wished. He says it keeps businesses "accountable and transparent." After the summit, the group moved to Manufacture New York’s studio on 36th street where everyone had the chance to get a hands-on experience with local designers and products. I learned how to spin fabric from Zaida of Balmaseda (so much easier than I imagined) . I also met designer Tabitha St Bernard-Jacobs of Tabii Just who showed us about zero-waste design. In all, the event was a success and as Francisca stated, everyone can make a small contribution. Designers were able to educate one another on best practices, employees of the fashion industry had a platform to discuss their challenges, and everyone was able to walk away with a piece of education that is much more valuable than any t-shirt or handbag, especially if they only last your average 2-3 year life cycle! Next time you go shopping during this busy Christmas time and you're looking for presents or the perfect New Years outfit, look at the tag, research, and think about it. Is it really worth what you're paying for? Can you mix and match your favorite crop top, or re-wear that classy little black dress? How about swapping a piece with your friend? Let's be honest, I can't afford a Stella McCartney shirt that has a life span of your grandmother's best kept winter coat. I am also guilty of this and yes, 'fast fashion' is an enormous beast. I have had to buy last minute dresses and only worn them once. Guilty. We're all in this together, to share ideas and information and empower each other to make more sustainable and ethical decisions. If we all take steps forward a trifle do our part then we can collectively improve the lives of animals, people and our planet. -Dominica Fashion Editor Ethical Fashion Academy Join the Ethical Fashion Academy and BEinSpain for an inspirational and intimate look at the art of Abigail Doan and designer Zaida Balmaseda this September 18th from 6:30-10 pm. Scroll below to explore the work of Abigail Doan and Balmaseda. Click here to RSVP Abigail Doan Environmental fiber artist and writer, Abigail Doan, currently divides her time between NYC, Eastern Europe, and Tuscany. Her work as a fiber artist offers a unique view into the materials, methods, and life cycle of handmade textiles, slow fashion garments, and related environmental issues. Abigail's recycled fiber forms and land-based installation work has been featured on Art Cloth Text, Craftzine, LabforCulture, Landviews, Treehugger, Trendtablet – as well as in the New York Times, HAND/EYE Magazine, Surface Design Journal, The Natural Resource's Defense Council's OnEarth and the books, Fiber Art Today and Green Guide for Artists. She is an internationally exhibited artist and works to promote the preservation of textiles, natural resources, and cultural handcraft techniques globally. Her most recent curatorial projects include Fete for the Senses as reviewed on Trendtablet, (Re)Fashioning Fiber in NYC, and Fashioning Self and the Environment at the Textile Arts Center in Brooklyn. Residencies include The LAND/an art site in rural New Mexico as well as symposia and environmental art exhibitions with the United Nations Environment Programme and in museums and galleries internationally. A summa cum laude graduate of and former adjunct professor at Purchase College, State University of New York, Abigail also attended Princeton University and studied at The Center for Book Arts in NYC. She has organized art, textile, and design events globally and keeps visual journals and research archives at Lost in Fiber and Toolshedding. Abigail's website Zaida Adriana Goveo Balmaseda Born in Bayamón, Puerto Rico to Cuban and Puerto Rican parents, Zaida grew up in the countryside surrounded by horses and mango trees. Her mother and grandmother are master craftswomen who provided a household full of creativity where she developed an effervescent interest in the Arts. Zaida graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology in 2011, after spending two years studying at POLIMODA in Florence, and the Politecnico di Milano, in Milan. She holds a BFA in International Fashion Design: Knitwear Specialization. Committed to ethical/sustainable practices, throughout the design/production process, Goveo Balmaseda worked with Auralis' and STUDY NY. A believer in quality vs. quantity, interested in research, and in exploring the realm between art and fashion. Zaida's mission is to emphasize the meaningful results we can obtain while using alternative methods to create unconventional, clothes/art that are beautiful and fair to everyone. She feels that going the extra mile can bring out surprising ideas and creative solutions to an industry that needs a new set of values. Zaida’s work has been exhibited at the MMXIproject (Tribeca Grand Hotel, NYC), Mittelmoda in Gorizia, Italy, the Ethical Fashion Show in Paris, France, The Green Fashion Competition during Amsterdam Fashion Week, and Fete for The Senses in NYC. She is about to begin an Artist Residency program at the Textile Arts Center in New York. Zaida's website. Carmen Artigas Carmen has worked in the fashion for nearly 20 years, most recently in sustainable design, consulting, and sourcing. Working in India in 1999 with artisan communities reviving endangered crafts and later developing a yoga line using certified organic cotton and natural dyes exposed her to the challenges of developing sustainable products. She currently teaches Ethical Fashion at the Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons New School of Design in New York, and she dedicates her time to reevaluating the human and environmental cost of products, advocating for craftsmanship, and redefining “made-in” and “made-by”. about.me/carmenartigas A 15-year veteran of the publishing industry, Jasmin Malik Chua is the managing editor of Ecouterre.com, the leading website on sustainability and innovation in fashion. She has an M.S. in biomedical journalism from New York University, where she was a founding fellow of the literary reportage program, and a B.S. in animal biology from the National University of Singapore. In addition to stories published in online and print publications like Alive, Inhabitat,Plenty, The Huffington Post, and Sprig, Chua has been quoted as a green expert by such publications and outlets as The New York Times, BBC Radio, BusinessWeek, Newsweek, and People. www.ecouterre.com Francisca Pineda is the founder of the Ethical Fashion Academy, a community focused initiative that organizes eco-fashion events in New York City and a yearly hands-on Eco-Fashion Workshop in Costa Rica. She is the creative director for BHAVA, a luxury artisan-made cruelty-free footwear collection: conscious & cool with a dose of ingénue charm.
Francisca is also passionate about sharing what she has learned throughout her 15 year career designing apparel and accessories with the next generation of designers and teaches design through the Fashion Portfolio Academy, an online design education platform. I recently had the pleasure of meeting Natalie Mundy who introduced me to the beautiful hand spun silk scarves made by Federation SAHALANDY. Located in a tiny mountain town in Madagascar, Sandrandahy, is made up of 7 silk/cotton weaving co-operatives and associations. Natalie first started working with Sahalandy through a volunteer project with the UN. However when her official duties in Madagascar were complete, her life had changed and although back in the US she has continued her work helping to spread the word about this amazing project of hope and empowerment. Each scarf is made of naturally dyed, hand-spun raw silk. The natural colors are subtle and sophisticated, and the unique weavings make each piece true one of a kind luxury. Meet Natalie and experience the beauty of the Sahalandy collection this holiday season at the Columbus Circle Holiday Market from Nov.28-Dec.24, daily from 10-8 pm. If you're interested in learning more about Sahalandy or volunteering with Natalie, contact [email protected] www.sahalandy.org Future designer in Puerto Viejo's public school perfects his sketching skills. It's Thanksgiving day, probably my favorite holiday, not just because I love pumpkin pie but because it's a time to remember everything we are grateful for. There is such contagious joy in those who emanate gratitude, just think how good you felt last time someone thanked you, and how small that favor felt in return for that beaming smile. Today I can't help but recall one of my favorite moments in our recent trip to Costa Rica. The caribbean side of Costa Rica is known for the most beautiful beaches and exotic flora and fauna, however, its public schools are neglected. I learned this when I met Eva Percich, an Italian artist who lives in Puerto Viejo and has single handedly made it her mission to provide an art curriculum in the local school. Can you image no art class in elementary school? Within a few years Eva has achieved her goal and the little school now has a small art classroom. The local kids enjoy it so much that even on a school holiday they still show up and Eva is there to open the door and hold an unofficial session. I met Eva earlier this year and she had asked me if I would give the students a fashion design class just for fun. When I returned in October for our workshop I followed up with Eva and we spent an amazing day introducing a small group of students to the fashion design process. I explained that a designer's first step is to find their inspiration, develop a mood board and decide their color palette. From there each student was to design a garment or accessory. This was a group of ages from 10-16 but all enjoyed the day. Eva has been working to help the students develop their talents and I have also posted some photos of their paintings. She told me that many had offered to volunteer to teach a class there but that I was the first who truly followed up. In all truth, with the workshop and all the traveling, I too was close to canceling, we can all think of million reasons to postone a plan with a friend, but I am so glad I didn't. Visiting the school was such an eye opening experience for me. I had never thought that such a beautiful place with visitors from all over the world does not trickle down any of its wealth to its public schools. We don't need to wait for a tragedy to make a difference, chances are if you look around there is someone who would love a little care and recognition, wether a 5 or 75 year old, you'd be surprised how effective a simple gesture can be. Scroll down to enjoy photos of that day and some paintings by the young artists. KACHAMA- EXTRAORDINARY TEXTILE ARTIST visits NYC with her stunning hand weaving art from Thailand.9/4/2012 I recently had the honor of meeting textile artist extraordinaire Kachama. She shared her beautiful textiles with us at our recent Conscious Collaborations event. I then had the privilege of meeting her again the next evening at an open house hosted by Jeanne Golly. Kachama was kind enough to answer some questions and allow me to photograph some of her pieces. For decades Kachama has been using hand woven and natural dye techniques in her studio in the Chang Mai region of northern Thailand. The first time she went to the mountains to learn these ancient techniques almost every home had a loom and often the grandmother was the weaver. Since then the number of weavers has dwindled and those using natural dyes are even more rare. What are we losing? More than those of us who live a modern life can even begin to comprehend. Natural dyes are not just about gorgeous colors, but serve us with their medicinal properties as well. By studying with the tribes she learned so many of the subtleties like why it is best to dye indigo at night. She also spoke of a woman who healed her son's skin ailments by dyeing his clothes in natural tree bark dyes to protect his skin. As each generation loses interest in this history who knows what knowledge is lost. It has taken hundreds of years to pass down this information and the temptation to work in the city, often to sew at a fast fashion factory, is too great to stay behind with grandmother and weave. Conservation of cultural heritage is key in Kachama's mission. By re-weaving traditional hilltribe tapestries, both antiques and contemporary, inside her own creations Kachama hopes to preserve and promote the cultural legacy of Thailand’s mountain people. In her Reuse/Recycle/Replenish series exhibited in Tokyo, Kachama explores our everyday waste and manages the impossible by incorporating our modern day garbage into her work, creating a devastatingly beautiful landscape. Thank you Kachama, my conversation with you was inspirational and your work is exceptional. I have uploaded several photographs in full size so you can take your time to explore her work. Each piece takes months to complete, and is unique unto itself. Enjoy. For more information visit www.kachama.com |
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